The 2018 Barolo Mosconi is a broad, potent wine. A blast of macerated dark cherry, leather, spice, dried herbs, chocolate and mocha makes a strong opening statement. As always, the Mosconi is a brooding, virile wine with huge depth, tons of intensity and big, brawny tannins that need time to soften. There is a good deal of oak, but the wine has the presence and overall intensity to carry it well.

The Parusso 2018 Barolo Mosconi shows that distinctively stemmy element that I always associate with these wines so carefully made by Marco Parusso and his family. The bouquet is firm and powerful with dried cherry, steeped Darjeeling tea and persimmon. The wine is extra solid, both in terms of structure and tannins, and it follows up with an ample 15% alcohol content.

Monforte d'Alba. Lustrous ruby with orange tinges. Dramatic, exotic nose of marasca cherry, maracuja and crushed raspberry. Deep raspberry and marasca-cherry palate with big tannins and an endlessly long aromatic finish with vanilla hints. Takes your breath away a little and in need of more bottle age. (WS)