The 2012 Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose is another fabulous wine from Poderi Colla. Deep, layered and quite giving at the moment, the 2012 has more than enough depth to drink well for many years to come. It is perhaps not as pedigreed as the 2013 tasted alongside it, but it is very, very close. In fact, this is one of the highlights of the vintage.

Extremely floral and subtle with dried cherry and mushroom powder character on the nose. Full-bodied, firm and silky. Very fine tannins. Yet chewy textured and necessitating some bottle age. Better in 2018.

This is perfumed, exuding a mélange of macerated cherry, licorice, leather, soy and spice aromas and flavors. Though concentrated, this remains elegant, ending with a cascade of sweet fruit and mineral elements. Dense tannins. Best from 2019 through 2033. 2,500 cases made. (BS)

Very pale and bricky. Sweet aroma of dried cherries. Fruit-cake spice, but not overripe at all. Direct and purposeful on the palate, power initially but then a long finish, very dry but not drying finish. Finely balanced. (JH)

Monforte d’Alba. Just mid ruby with a watery orange-tinged rim. Sweetly fruity on the palate and building up in concentration on the finish. Big, drying tannins for the moment, but the fruit holds up effortlessly. (WS)