The 2016 Barolo is a terrific example of the year. Bright acids and veins of supporting tannins give the 2016 its super-classic feel. Sweet red cherry fruit, chalk, mint, dried flowers, cedar, anise and sweet pipe tobacco all grace this translucent, mid-weight Barolo. Best of all, the 2016 can be enjoyed with just a few more years in bottle. It is a gorgeous wine and a good relative value within Barolo.

Traditionalists happily fall back to this wine from Pio Cesare. This historic winery, now in its fifth generation and located within the city limits of Alba, takes care to shape a classic interpretation without too many extra bells or whistles. The fact that Pio Cesare now has the flashier Barolo Ornato and the newly created Barolo Mosconi, only gives more importance to this wine. The Pio Cesare 2016 Barolo offers deep, dark fruit with a mingling of spice, smoke, tar and smoke. This wine represents a blend of fruit from five comuni, or villages: Cascina Ornato, La Serra and Briccolina in Serralunga d'Alba; Gustava and Garretti in Grinzane Cavour; Roncaglie in La Morra; Ravera in Novello; and starting with the 2015 vintage, Mosconi in Monforte d’Alba. An ample 60,000 bottles were produced.

Serralunga d’Alba. Cask sample. Bright mid ruby with orange tinges. Savoury and still quite closed on the nose. Super-elegant, supple, almost fresh palate with fine-grained long tannins that go on and on together with the fruit. Can be approached now (although this is not bottled yet), while 2015 needs more time. (WS)