The 2004 Barolo Ornato is the most distinguished Ornato yet. This Barolo remains very primary and backward, yet there is a haunting inner perfume that occasionally makes an appearance here and that augurs very well for the wine's future. The tannins are fine but also beautifully balanced by the wine's massive fruit. A recent tasting of Ornatos including the wines from the 1990s shows that the current lower levels of toast in the barrels is allowing more vintage and vineyard character to emerge in this wine, something that is a huge stride in the right direction.

Good deep, saturated red. The nose offers incredibly primary aromas of crushed raspberry, minerals and underbrush. Lush on entry, then fat, primary and sweet in the middle, with superb strength of material supported by mineral spine. Conveys an impression of great size without any heaviness. Finishes with wonderful breadth of tannins, and fruit and mineral flavors that spread out over the entire palate and refuse to leave. A monumental Barolo in the making, and likely to be very long-lived.