The 2015 Barolo Ornato is dense and muscular, as it so often is. Rich, potent Serralunga tannins wrap around a core of smoke, grilled herbs, licorice, chalk, dried flowers, tobacco and plum notes. In the glass, the 2015 exudes virile intensity and power, but there is less in the way of finesse. Ultimately, the Ornato comes across as a bit monolithic and one-dimensional. I have to think something more is possible here.

With powerful fruit from Serralunga d'Alba, the 2015 Barolo Ornato is a plush and dense red wine with a contemporary feel that prizes richness and overall accessibility. There is a level of softness here that permeates the entire wine and adds to the already-intense aromas of red fruit, blackberry, spice, tar, asphalt and candied orange peel. This structured Barolo is best tasted with a platter of Alpine cheeses and jellied honey. Some 13,000 bottles were made.

Serralunga d’Alba. Tasted blind. Mid ruby. Balsamic with a faint note of Moroccan leather. Plenty of plush fruit and a rich layer of soft, chewy tannins. (WS)