The 2014 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is the most open-knit and easygoing of these Riservas. Creamy and giving, the Rio Sordo is one of the more available of the Riservas in the early going, an impression that is reinforced by its mid-weight structure. Perfumed floral notes add lift to the dark, red-toned fruit.

The 2014 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo represents a jump forward in structure compared to the other three vineyards (Pora, Pajè and Ovello) that were tasted before this wine. The Riserva Rio Sordo shows a dark and solid personality, with a tight core of black fruit that will relax and unwind with more bottle aging in the cellar. It is also slightly sharper and more focused in terms of mouthfeel, with the kind of tannic tightness you always get with young Nebbiolo in the cooler vintages such as 2014. Barbaresco lovers should jot this one down.