The 2020 Barolo Cerretta is a pretty, exotic wine. Hard candy, dried flowers, mint, spice and cedar all waft from the glass. I find the 2020 a touch ethereal, almost to the point of being fleeting. Otherwise, it is nicely done.

In addition to its ongoing stylistic evolution, Prunotto has recently added a few important new sites to its holdings, including this 1.5-hectare parcel in Serralunga d'Alba with ancient Sant'Agata marl soils. The 2020 Barolo Cerretta shows more structural heft at the back with red and blue fruit, blood orange and rusty nail. I also get root and bramble that add an earthy side to the bouquet. This is a release of 9,140 bottles.

Serralunga d’Alba. Very pale ruby. Dark-earth, raspberry and wild-strawberry nose. It becomes more and more complex the longer it sits in the glass. Slow to open up on the palate, the fruit shows fantastic focus and builds up on the finish. Gravelly tannins complete the whole. (WS)