The 2007 Barolo Brunate-Le Coste is a regal, aristocratic Barolo. Firm tannins keep some of the extroverted qualities of the vintage in check. This shows marvelous inner minerality and coolness, with deep layers of fruit, menthol, licorice and tar that fill out the wine’s broad shouldered frame. The Brunte-Le Coste shuts down pretty quickly in the glass, suggesting it may be headed for a period of dormancy. Today, it is flat-out stunning. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2038. AG Oct 2011

Moderately saturated medium red. Decadent, expressive, highly complex nose combines cherry liqueur, mocha, white pepper, sage, rosemary and cinnamon. At once silky and penetrating, with a bit less of the saline, earthy side of the 2008 and more cherry liqueur character. Finishes with substantial tannins, terrific energy and captivating lingering perfume. This seems to be in the process of shutting down today; it was bottled in April. I would not be surprised if this beauty merited an even higher score with seven or eight years of bottle aging.

Barolo. Concentrated ruby still quite youthful. Immediate strawberry and raspberry nose. Same intense sweet red fruit on the palate. Gentle mouthfeel, but needs to shed it juvenile brashness. Very perfumed finish with stalky tannin. (WS)