A Barolo of midweight structure and persistence, the 2014 Brunate comes across as a wine that will drink well with minimal cellaring. The 2014 offers fine balance in a decidedly gracious, understated style. Naturally, the dimension and breadth of the very best years aren't quite there.

The Giuseppe Rinaldi 2014 Barolo Brunate is a darkly saturated expression with important textural richness and lasting dark fruit flavors. Marta Rinaldi tells me that she lost up to 40% of her Brunate fruit in 2014 because of a violent hail storm. That natural yield reduction has done much to increase the power and concentration of this lovely Barolo. Blackberry, sour cherry and wild plum segue to grilled herb and citrusy orange peel.

Barolo. Tasted blind. Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Lifted cherry and rosehip on the nose. Lithe, sour cherry fruit that dances over the palate. (WS)