The 2010 Barbaresco Pajé is the most complete of Luca Roagna's 2010 Barbarescos today. A host of dark cherry, plum, leather, savory herbs, tobacco and menthol all open up in the glass, enshrouded by the balsamic notes that are so typical of this site. The tannins are firm and incisive, yet there is a density and pure vibrancy in the fruit that balances things out. All the elements are in the right place. The straight Pajé is a bit more lifted and delicate than the Vecchie Viti.

This is beginning to reveal some tertiary characteristics, with spice, mineral and leather aromas and flavors surrounding a core of cherry and raspberry. There are still tannins to shed, but the lasting impression is of sweet fruit. Drink now through 2025. BS