The 2012 Barbaresco Pajé Vecchie Viti is wonderfully complete. Dark, ample and full-bodied, yet also very much in the classic mold of all these wines, the 2012 has so much to say. Herb, tobacco, licorice, menthol and earthiness fill out the wines broad, muscular frame. I would prefer to cellar the 2012 for at least a handful of years.

This is packed with sweet cherry and berry flavors, meshing beautifully with licorice, tar, leather and cigar box nuances. Though balanced and round on the minerally finish, this feels very structured and has plenty more to give. Best from 2022 through 2040. 188 cases made. BS

Old vines are seriously defined here: 75 years or more. Other Roagna principles include rigorously organic cultivation, late harvesting and traditional, long ageing practices. This is a dark-hued wine with the seamless harmony of aromas which traditional ageing tends to bring: autumnal red fruits, wild-mushroom complexities. On the palate, too, there is a glowing fruit core to the wine. Limpidity, purity and proportion: a perfectly clothed body of wine, fresh yet rich, ample yet graceful.
Tasted by: Andrew Jefford