The 2010 Barbaresco Crichët Pajè is one of the most captivating and arrestingly beautiful wines I have ever tasted from Roagna. Intense, penetrating Nebbiolo aromatics make a strong opening statement before the 2010 literally takes over all the sense. Medium in body and yet also remarkably deep. Rose petal, kirsch, dried herbs, hard candy, mint and sweet spice develop in the glass, but it is the wine's sense of harmony that really stands out. The 2010 spent five years in cask (one less than normal), a choice that paid off handsomely.

The iconic 2010 Barbaresco Crichët Pajé doesn’t have Roagna’s name on the front label (other than a signature in script). Instead, the wine is recognized by its artwork featuring an image of workers on a labor strike with some political meaning. Luca Roagna’s grandfather bought these vines in 1953, and the first official vintage made was 1978 (even though a handful of experimental 1977 bottles may conceivably be spotted once in a blue moon). Most of the vines today are 80 years old. Luca’s father wanted to create a revolutionary wine (hence the political artwork on the font label) that would represent a break from classic Barbaresco. The idea was to create a Barbaresco designed for long cellar aging, just like its nearby cousin, Barolo. Indeed, the first thing you notice about this expression from 2010 is that the tannic structure needs more time to soften. That’s remarkable given that this wine has already completed anywhere from eight to ten (depending on the vintage) years of barrel aging. Crichët Pajé is not an officially recognized MGA cru; however, it is a single vineyard (measuring about half a hectare) planted on softly rolling hills that form an enclosed little amphitheater. ML

A ripe, savory style, with a fruit profile that leans toward cherry and plum compote flavors, accented by coffee, soy, tar and mineral notes, all supported by a dense layer of chunky tannins. Despite the mature fruit profile, this is surprisingly fresh on the finish, with excellent length. Still a youngster, this should age for decades. Best from 2024 through 2045. BS