The 2017 Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti is totally beguiling. Of the 2017 Barbarescos, the Montefico is the wine that is most similar to its usual self. The marriage of Montefico austerity with textural breadth makes for an absolutely compelling Barbaresco that delivers on so many levels. Sweet red-toned fruit, spice, chalk, mint and blood orange are some of the many aromas and flavors that build into the intense, palate staining finish. Superb.

The 2017 Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti (with a precious few 1,214 bottles made) is extremely fine, direct and linear with a quality of old-school Nebbiolo intensity that is hard to find in today's modern Barbarescos. The wine is silky and fragile in character with dried cherry, iris root and iodine. The Roagna house style shows very fine tannins, and you'll find those in this vintage too. The Montefico comes from vines grown in distinct blue-gray marl soils.