The 2000 Barolo Cannubi Boschis shows early signs of maturity in its autumn leaves, leather and spices. There is an attractive silkiness to the fruit, but ultimately the 2000 comes across as a bit two-dimensional, especially in context with some of the truly great vintages. The wine does freshen up a touch in the glass, not enough to make a material difference. Ideally the 2000 is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. I can still remember tasting Luciano Sandrone’s 2000 Baroli when they were young. The wines were unusually soft, seamless and pleasurable. Today Sandrone’s 2000s are more advanced than I had hoped or expected, which is somewhat of a disappointment as I own bottles of the 2000 Cannubi Boschis. I also own bottles of older vintages going back to 1988, and it is pretty clear the 2000 falls short of the standard this winery established in its truly great vintages, both before and after.

Full ruby-red. Knockout lifted nose combines red cherry, tangy spices, mocha and dried flowers. Sweet, deep and round; offers a wonderfully layered texture but harmonious acids give it grip. Finishes extremely long and palate-staining, with big, tongue-dusting tannins and noteworthy verve. A glorious showing today.

The 2000 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is very much a wine of its vintage, broad and soft in character with melting tannins, but with a freshness of aroma which distinguishes it from many others. Drink: 2005-2017. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411