The 2006 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is seductive, round and sweet in its ripe dark fruit. The wine continues to gain weight in the glass, showing a level of density that nearly manages to cover the tannins. Floral notes add lift on the finish. This is a powerful, linear Cannubi Boschis with tons of energy and muscle, but it will require quite a bit of patience. Sandrone harvests his three parcels in Cannubi Boschis separately. Vinification takes place in stainless steel. The wines undergo malolactic fermentation and are aged in 500-liter barrels (roughly 20% new) for a year. Once the final blend is assembled, the wine goes back into oak for another year prior to being bottled in the spring. Sandrone is one of the earliest producers to bottle, which he does to preserve as much freshness as possible. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. My visit last year with Luciano and Luca Sandrone was illuminating, as I had an opportunity to taste verticals of both of the estate’s Barolos spanning vintages 2005 through 2009, culminating with exceptional bottles of the 1990s, which I report on in this issue’s “What About Now” feature. Sandrone’s 2006 Barolos are among the unqualified successes of the 2006 harvest. The wines show more richness and density than the 2005s, but less exuberance than the 2007s, in a focused, driven style I find quite attractive. Importer: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NJ tel. (914) 769-3000

Barolo. Lustrous, concentrated ruby. Intense and deep red-fruit nose and without any sign of age. On the palate, the same youthfulness paired with great generosity of fruit and sleek, long-lasting crunchy tannins. (WS)