The 2014 Barolo Vite Talin is fabulous. Rich and ample in feel, the 2014 melds together the natural richness this heavily virused clone produces in its tiny yields with the freshness of 2014. Black cherry, licorice, spice, menthol and chocolate are all given an extra kick of textural richness in this positively stunning Barolo that is easily one of the most compelling wines of this tricky year. The cold, late-ripening year produced an exotic Barolo laced with hints of apricot and wild flowers that are unusual in Barolo.

With a September 2019 release date, the 2014 Barolo Vite Talin is robust, with broad shoulders and beautiful aromas of spice and herbs. There is a fullness and generosity to its meaty notes, while it shows a more rustic side when put side by side with the 2015: The tannins here make their presence well known, and the wine has a wild side overall. The Vite Talin is a wine that has a way of responding to difficult harvests like this one. The grapes survived for a reason, and what you get here is not your classic approach to Barolo at all. This expression explores new boundaries, and it will be a hard wine to forget. This Barolo was born following 25 years of experimentation, and only 2,200 precious bottles were made.

Barolo. Deep ruby. A little dusty and unwilling on the nose. The fruit is a little suppressed with only oak hints noticeable right now. With aeration, camphor and much less dusty. Crushed fresh red fruit with mouth-watering acidity and gripping tannins. (WS)