The multidimensional 1998 Barolo Le Vigne possesses huge layers of black cherry fruit infused with rose petals, tar, balsam wood, mineral, and subtle new oak notes. Full-bodied, awesomely concentrated, and extraordinarily pure, this exquisite, youthful Barolo will be at its prime between now and 2020. RP

The multidimensional 1998 Barolo Le Vigne possesses huge layers of black cherry fruit infused with rose petals, tar, balsam wood, mineral, and subtle new oak notes. Full-bodied, awesomely concentrated, and extraordinarily pure, this exquisite, youthful Barolo will be at its prime between 2004-2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Good medium color. Aromatic nose of smoky red fruits and game. Sweet and velvety in the mouth, though a bit reduced; perfumed notes of violet and strawberry. A velvety, very concentrated, impeccably extracted wine with perfectly integrated acids. Finishes very long and subtle, with building but fine tannins that are in harmony with the wine's material.

The 1998 Barolo Vigne from Luciano Sandrone has a really gorgeous bouquet featuring a mélange of black and blue fruit, wilted violets and peppermint, all delivered with superb definition. The palate is quite elegant and poised, just slightly viscous in texture but counterbalanced with a keen thread of acidity, red plum, cassis and clove toward the harmonious finish. Excellent. Tasted at the Vinous off-line dinner at La Trompette.

Sweet berries, with fresh basil and tarragon aromas that follow through to a full body. Very silky tannins and a balanced and refined finish. Wonderful to taste. Why wait?--1998 Piedmont blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 1,500 cases made. (James Suckling)