The 2005 Barolo Cannubi is simply beautiful. Sweet, open aromatics lead to a silky-textured core of ripe, perfumed fruit as the wine reveals awesome purity, superb length and classy balance. Floral notes develop in the glass, adding further complexity and sweet tannins frame the long finish. The wine needs a few years to come together, but this is striking Cannubi. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. My visit with Enrico Scavino and his daughter, Enrica, was one of the highlights of my November trip to Piedmont. In addition to these superb 2005 Barolos, I also sampled all of the 2006s, 2007s and 2008s from barrel and/or tank, which made for an incredible tasting. In recent years Scavino’s wines have taken on additional elements of classicism that I find very appealing. Enrico Scavino has the energy of someone half his age. Scavino has recently concluded the purchase in the Monvigliero vineyard in Verduno which he had previously rented, and will make a new single vineyard Barolo from this site. Further acquisitions are in the works but are not yet finalized. I wish every producer in Piedmont had Scavino’s sheer passion. As for the 2005s, well, they are striking for their aromatics and level of ripeness. Scavino continues to dial back the oak, and the color of these wines is much more typical of Nebbiolo than has been the case in the recent past. The overall level of quality is very close to 2004, although the wines are very different in terms of their personalities. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Good deep red. Highly aromatic nose combines cherry, dried flowers, truffley underbrush, minerals and fresh herbs. Juicy, sharply delineated and penetrating if a bit youthfully imploded today. Less obviously sweet than the Bric del Fiasc, but this wine's medicinal reserve and superb inner-palate energy suggest it will merit an even higher score with five or six years of cellaring. Wonderfully juicy and long on the aftertaste, with the tannins thoroughly buffered by extract.

Mid ruby with narrow orange rim. Dark malt and minerals on the nose with savoury hints of raw meat. Elegant, supple and fresh if not enormously expressive. Lots of powdery tannins yet plenty of supple fruit to balance it. (WS)