The soft-textured, open 1997 Rocche dell'Annunziata (3-liter) is another beautiful wine. Showing plenty of super-ripe fruit, tar and licorice nuances and a lush personality it nevertheless has plenty of underlying structure as well as balance. It is a great choice for current drinking and its slightly more evolved aromas and flavors suggest it will reach full maturity sooner than the other vintages in this flight.

The virtually perfect 1997 Barolo Rocche dell Annunziata offers an amazing perfume of roasted nuts, cedar, Provencal herbs, black cherry jam, rose petals, vanilla, and meat. Fabulously concentrated, with multiple flavor dimensions, and a texture that swells in the mouth, this full-bodied, seamless, compelling Barolo is destined to be a legend. Approachable now, it promises to age for two decades.

The virtually perfect 1997 Barolo Rocche dell Annunziata offers an amazing perfume of roasted nuts, cedar, Provencal herbs, black cherry jam, rose petals, vanilla, and meat. Fabulously concentrated, with multiple flavor dimensions, and a texture that swells in the mouth, this full-bodied, seamless, compelling Barolo is destined to be a legend. Approachable now, it promises to age for two decades. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Very dark ruby. Wonderful aromas of roses, blackberry, violet and licorice. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and lots of juicy fruit. Turns to fresh mushroom on the finish. Balanced and pretty. Just coming around.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. (James Suckling)

Deep saturated red. Superripe aromas of red cherry, berries, licorice and menthol; here the oak is much less apparent than in the Bric del Fiasc. Dense, voluminous and impressively structured; has the sheer chewy extract to buffer its considerable alcoholic clout. Finishes rather powerfully, with a youthful aggressiveness that will require at least a few years of patience.