The 2021 Barolo Monvigliero is a pretty dense wine. I don't see quite the delineation or nuance of the finest wines in this range or the best wines from this site, which leads me to believe Scavino is still getting a feel for Monvigliero. For many top producers, this would be a superb wine, but in this lineup, it's in the middle of the pack. Macerated cherry, spice, tobacco and cedar struggle to emerge fully. I hope to revisit the 2021 in a few years' time.

The Paolo Scavino 2021 Barolo Monvigliero needs extra time in bottle. It reveals aromas of dried flower, rose, powdered licorice and cola. This expression is not as immediately floral as Monvigliero can sometimes be. In fact, this wine offers more heft and structure than I anticipated. It has a pretty quality of tannins, firm and chalky. The vineyard is measured at under one hectare in Verduno with southeast exposures on Sant'Agata Fossili Marl soils. Production is 4,300 bottles.

Bright pillar-box red. Complex nose with some evolution. Then the palate has a little less energy than the Scavino Bussia Vigna Fantini and the Bricco Ambrogio. Solid stuff rather than energising. But very clean, with a note of liquorice. (JR)