The 2017 Barolo Ravera is dazzling. Deep, potent and virile, the 2017 has a lot to say, but it won’t be ready to drink anytime soon. Black cherry, graphite, licorice, smoke, game, lavender and licorice convey a real impression of gravitas that is reinforced by the wine’s overall feel. This powerhouse Barolo is magnificent today in a sort of old-school meets new-school style.

Wow. What incredible purity to this on the nose with blackberries and raspberries and dark wood, such as mahogany or bark. So perfumed, too. Full-bodied with such a solid core of tannins, yet they are layered and polished and come together nicely. A solid, fine wall of tannins, yet the wine is not aggressive. This is really top. Drink after 2024.

Showing resolve and determination, the Paolo Scavino 2017 Barolo Ravera (with fruit from Novello) offers more concentration and a much darker quality of fruit with blackberry and plum. Ravera gives us density and power and a generous display of dark spice with tobacco and toasted hazelnut. Despite that extra muscle and heft, I love how the tannins are so expertly integrated into the fruit.

A major success for a dry vintage such as 2017 is to release a wine without any dryness, such as this interpretation of Ravera from the Scavino estate. Dense ruby in the glass, it has a cherry fruit character on the nose, with lemongrass and spice complexity then a whiff of herbs. The crunchy palate has firm yet ripe tannins, not too extracted. The fruit is sustained by crisp acidity, with good balance overall.