The soft-textured, open 1997 Rocche dell'Annunziata (3-liter) is another beautiful wine. Showing plenty of super-ripe fruit, tar and licorice nuances and a lush personality it nevertheless has plenty of underlying structure as well as balance. It is a great choice for current drinking and its slightly more evolved aromas and flavors suggest it will reach full maturity sooner than the other vintages in this flight.

The virtually perfect 1997 Barolo Rocche dell Annunziata offers an amazing perfume of roasted nuts, cedar, Provencal herbs, black cherry jam, rose petals, vanilla, and meat. Fabulously concentrated, with multiple flavor dimensions, and a texture that swells in the mouth, this full-bodied, seamless, compelling Barolo is destined to be a legend. Approachable now, it promises to age for two decades. (RP)

Very dark ruby. Wonderful aromas of roses, blackberry, violet and licorice. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and lots of juicy fruit. Turns to fresh mushroom on the finish. Balanced and pretty. Just coming around.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Drink now. 250 cases made. (James Suckling)

Red-ruby color, a bit less bright. Cooler, less forthcoming aromas of black cherry, licorice and camphor. Extremely concentrated and dense; shows an almost confectionery sweetness but sound acids give the fruit lovely clarity. The tannins are impeccably distributed, allowing the wine fruit to explode and linger on the finish.

The 1997 Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata is a deep garnet. Its full-barreled aromas of cinnamon, plums, and cedar announce flavors of superior ripeness and sweetness. Plush and sensual with an inner core of strength and length, and a gratifying finish of melting, mouth-coating tannins, it should be drunk between 2005-2018. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411