The 2004 Barolo Riserva Campè is deeper, richer and darker than the straight Campè bottling. Interestingly, the French oak is also better balanced. Today, the 2004 boasts considerable intensity and resonance, both of which suggest it will drink well for a number of years. All the elements are very nicely balanced in an opulent, lush Barolo built on texture.

This wine was tasted in a magnum. The 2004 Barolo Riserva Vigneto Campe is made with fruit from the highest part of the hill. Luscious and bright, this deeply textured wine puts on a fascinating array of ever-changing aromas. You get licorice, pipe tobacco, black fruit, cassis, tar, rosehip and dried herb. The excellent 2004 vintage has shaped silky, long tannins with the backbone to carry the wine throughout the years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035. Giorgio Rivetti has unveiled a stunning line of new wines, and a few surprises as well, from his impeccable winery and tasting room at the foot of the Grinzane Cavour castle. The line of Riserva Barbarescos and Riserva Barolo will only be bottled in magnums in the best vintages. The year 2004 is the inaugural vintage of these special releases. Giorgio purchased a beautiful estate in the Grinzane Cavour estate for making Barolo. His vineyard graces a dome-shaped hill and is planted with 55- to 60-year-old Nebbiolo vines. Importers: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale, FL; tel. (954) 530-4021; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300