La Spinetta's 2017 Barbaresco Gallina Vürsù draws its fruit from a site in Neive with old vines. Intensity and richness are two qualities often associated with the wine made at this historic estate. A rotofermenter is used during winemaking to increase color concentration and richness, although its use is carefully measured and calculated says Giorgio Rivetti. The house style embraces barrique aging, and you get some soft spice and spent ember as a result. The 2017 vintage is distinguished by extra tightness, and you sense that in this wine. Some 10,500 bottles were made.

Neive. Tasted blind. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Deep, sweet-sour cherry nose with hints of cherry liqueur. Intense, deep, ripe fruit palate with the perfect dose of juicy acidity and crunchy tannins. A little massive right now but with time it will show its real personality, which it undoubtedly has. (WS)