The 2010 Barbaresco Vigneto Starderi is born in a vineyard that sits at 330 meters above sea level. Giorgio tells me that the challenge here is crafting a wine with both elegance and power. Thanks to ideal growing conditions in 2010, he has succeeded at his task. Firm structure is supported by fleshy fruit tones and elegantly integrated spice. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. Giorgio Rivetti has unveiled a stunning line of new wines, and a few surprises as well, from his impeccable winery and tasting room at the foot of the Grinzane Cavour castle. The line of Riserva Barbarescos and Riserva Barolo will only be bottled in magnums in the best vintages. The year 2004 is the inaugural vintage of these special releases. Giorgio purchased a beautiful estate in the Grinzane Cavour estate for making Barolo. His vineyard graces a dome-shaped hill and is planted with 55- to 60-year-old Nebbiolo vines. Importers: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale, FL; tel. (954) 530-4021; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Good full red. Sappy redcurrant and mineral aromas show a Burgundian urgency. Dense and sweet but still tightly wound, with lovely energy and a saline impression to its dark fruit flavors. Finishes with serious but sweet tannins that saturate the front teeth. There's more to come here. This wine and the Valeirano are mostly from michet, while the Gallina includes a bit of rose, notes Rivetti.