The 2015 Barbaresco Starderi Vürsù is a wine of towering stature, girth and power. The wine's tannic presence is very evident, and that undeniable structure is broad and underlying. I would suggest putting this bottle aside for at least five more years before popping the cork. The beauty here is that the tannins are integrated and never astringent. Instead, they act like a corset that ties the wine together in all the right places.

To partner the Anjou Pigeon you are going to need a red that is built for the task. The 2015 Barbaresco Vursu Vigneto Starderi from La Spinetta does just the job. Kirsch, raspberry coulis and touches of pine burst from the nose, maybe lacking a bit of grace, but does a sterling job in coping with the intensity of the pigeon. The palate is predictably rich, yet retains a sense of balance, maybe missing a bit of typicité, and with a bold finish that does not feel excessive. That bottle age might have tempered its nascent exuberance. This Barbaresco is drinking very well with several years of pleasure to give.

Neive. Tasted blind. Mature-looking ruby with bright, bricky rim. Iron, cherry and raspberry nose. Plenty of cherry fruit on the palate and with gripping tannins. (WS)