The 2017 Barolo Brunate is a powerful, brooding wine. Huge dark fruit, leather, spice, menthol and dried herbs all build in a potent Barolo that is enshrouded by tannins. The 2017 is going to need quite a bit of time in the cellar. Today, it is very much a brooding powerhouse. Dark wild cherry, licorice, tar, menthol and spice take shape in the glass, but the 2017 is clearly an infant, and an unruly one at that.

A release of 4,981 bottles, the Vietti 2017 Barolo Brunate is beautifully rich and fleshed out, with balanced fruit weight and inner structure. The bouquet reveals tart cherry and cassis, but the Brunate also shows a more delicate side, with crushed flowers, dried violet and polished stone. The power of this cru creeps up on the palate, where you feel the tightness of its fiber and tannins. Following that delicate aromatic preface, this Barolo ultimately delivers a strong, cellar-worthy performance.

Barolo. Tasted blind. Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. A little brooding with sweet top notes from oak. Supple cherry fruit that just manages to follow through on the finish. Sweet-sour cherry finish with grainy tannins. (WS)