The 2020 Barolo Brunate is a dark, beguiling wine. Black cherry, dried herbs, leather, game, licorice and incense lend gorgeous sepia-toned nuance. Brooding and inward, the 2020 clearly needs time. It is a super-classic Brunate that is hard to read in the early going, but the weight, substance and power are clearly there. Dense, meaty and dark, the 2020 shows Serralunga-like intensity.

The Vietti 2020 Barolo Brunate has a dark and spicy side that is infused throughout the fruit. Dark cherry and blackcurrant are folded into ferrous earth, grilled rosemary, aniseed and a hint of fresh mint. Brunate tends to be quite austere and firm in terms of its aromas, and this vintage shows those qualities well. In fact, the character of the site comes through clearly. The wine has a precise, angular personality, and the fruit feels compact. Only 4,988 bottles were made.

La Morra. Certified organic by Valoritalia. Just mid ruby. Sweetly perfumed but still quite closed on the nose. Youthful and compact on the palate with grainy, ripe tannins. Great balance, so just needs more time. (WS)