The 2006 Barolo Lazzarito has begun to show the pedigree of this great Serralunga site now that Vietti has backed off the French oak, and the 2006 is nothing short of superb. A melange of dark, mineral-infused fruit flows from the glass as the large-scaled Lazzarito gradually shows off its class. Licorice, tar, smoke and earthiness add layers of complexity and nuance. The Lazzarito is still the Barolo that spends the longest number of months in French oak following the malolactic fermentation, but that period is down to several months from a full year the wine spent in small barrels up until 2001 or so. One day the Lazzarito may challenge the Rocche as Vietti’s signature Barolo, and that day may be closer than most people realize. This huge, imposing Barolo will require patience, but it is nothing short of superb. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. (Antonio Galloni)

Good full red. Cherry, marzipan, chestnut and nutty oak on the nose. At once sweet and powerful, with excellent energy and power to the mineral and menthol flavors. Less refined than the Brunate but also much less open to inspection today. The long, mounting finish conveys a strong impression of energy.

This boasts a big dose of pure black cherry, plum and chocolate aromas and flavors, accented by sweet spices. A modern style, yet compelling and very firmly structured. Ends with touches of cocoa and black tea. Best from 2014 through 2032. 420 cases made. (BS)

Scented and very slightly leafy on the nose, a peppery fragrance and chalky-textured density. Very compact, in fact the texture is more clay-like than chalky. Not ready yet, even with food, though it does start to open in the glass to notes of cigar box and coffee – complex even if not yet yielding. Some dried-cherry flavour on the finish. (JH)