The 2009 Barolo Lazzarito is another layered, expressive Barolo. The hallmarks of this site in Serralunga emerge only gradually over time. My sense is that the 2009 still has a lot to say. Tar, smoke, licorice, plums, soy and incense are some of the nuances that flesh out on the rich, resonant finish.

Luca recently purchased more land in the Lazzarito cru. The 2009 Barolo Lazzarito delivers subdued notes of red rose and violet that build in intensity as the wine takes on more air in the glass. Black fruit, plum, cassis, leather, tar and licorice soon follow suit. This wine is an absolute, drop-dead stunner. Its tannic crispness makes it feel lively and buoyant in the mouth. The wine shows heft and importance that become firmly etched in the mouth. Each time I went back to the glass, the wine told a new story. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035.

Luca recently purchased more land in the Lazzarito cru. The 2009 Barolo Lazzarito delivers subdued notes of red rose and violet that build in intensity as the wine takes on more air in the glass. Black fruit, plum, cassis, leather, tar and licorice soon follow suit. This wine is an absolute, drop-dead stunner. Its tannic crispness makes it feel lively and buoyant in the mouth. The wine shows heft and importance that become firmly etched in the mouth. Each time I went back to the glass, the wine told a new story. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035. If forced to inhabit a desert island that only served the wines of a single producer, I would want Luca Currado to be that supplier. He excels at everything he does from his castle perch at the heart of Castiglione Falletto. Despite the difficult 2009 season, his wines remain extraordinary. In fact, they are among the best I tasted from the vintage. Importer: Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Good bright, dark red. Smoky raspberry, menthol and mint on the rather exuberant nose, accented by black pepper. Densely packed, plump and glyceral, with strong acidity giving shape to the flavors of strawberry, minerals, herbs and brown spices. Really spreads out on the back end.