In many ways, the gorgeous 2014 Barolo Lazzarito is the most surprising wine in the range. Once a stylistic outlier with a considerable French oak influence, today it is much closer to the other Barolos in terms of feel. Deep, dark and intense, with all of the energy of the year very much on display, the Lazzarito is super-expressive and shows a more red-toned profile than is the norm. Kirsch, mint, rose petal and chalk all develop in the glass, while beams of tannin and salinity give the wine shape and persistence. The weight and depth of Serralunga come through on the midpalate and into the finish. Even so, this is in a decidedly laid-back style for Serralunga. In 2014, I especially like the wine's aromatic presence.

Lazzarito is a majestic cru in Serralunga, and this sees 30 months in barriques and large barrels, offering unmistakable personality in a ‘third way’ Barolo, a balancing act between ageability and early approachability. Aromatic, tight-knit fruit, forest floor, tobacco and liquorice. Tannins in a state of grace. Assured longevity.

This wine represents a tremendous effort. The 2014 Barolo Lazzarito is a powerhouse Nebbiolo. Luca Currado tells me that this is one of the best vintages he has ever made. I felt it important to record his comment here because it comes as a very refreshing affirmation given all the controversy and naysaying that surrounds the 2014 vintage. Lazzarito vines sit in a shallow amphitheater that tends to lock in the summer heat. Indeed, this vineyard site suffers most in the scorching hot years and performs best in the coolest years. The bouquet is opulent and bold with black fruit and distinct traces of sweet chocolate and espresso. The mouthfeel is succulent and rich in natural fruit fiber and sweet tannins.