Vietti's 2017 Barolo Lazzarito is absolutely gorgeous. Whatever the challenges of the growing season, they appear to have been no problem here. More than anything else, the Lazzarito impresses with its magnificent depth and stature. Super-ripe red fruit, white pepper, mint, tobacco, cured meat, spice and rose petal open gradually with time in the glass. I would not be in a rush to open bottles anytime soon. The Lazzarito has been one of the most improved wines at Vietti for a number of years. The 2017 is so captivating.

This is very chewy and powerful with lots of velvety tannins that are firm and intense. It’s full and flavorful with strawberries and tar. Bark undertones. Flavorful finish. Needs time to soften. Try after 2024.

From the southwest facing amphitheater of Lazzarito in Serralunga d’Alba the 2017 Barolo Lazzarito was aged for 30 months in a combination of large oak casks and barrique. The nose is layered with elegant spice and floral notes of cedar, red plum, and brushed leather. There is incredible balance within its structure, which has deceptive ease for early drinking. Hold 3-5 years or drink 2023-2046. Vietti was founded by Carlo Vietti in the late 1800s and is based in Castiglione Falletto. Alfredo Currado married Luciana Vietti and is largely responsible for the resurrection of the Arneis grape. Today the estate is led by Luca Currado Vietti and his wife Elena. In 2016, the estate was purchased by Krause Holdings, which has enabled Luca and Elena to continue their roles while enabling them to support growth.

Vietti owns two hectares in Lazzarito, a stunning amphitheatre facing southwest on clay-limestone soil. Planted to about 4,500 plants per hectare, the vines here have an average age of 38 years. Sweet, filigreed notes of cinnamon, strawberry candy and violet unfold in the glass. The attack is polished, with ripe, crunchy tannins. The austerity of Serralunga here becomes density and volume, kept lively by lifted acidity and finishing with liquorice root and cinnamon. Perfect balance and great elegance. This will develop more complexity with ageing.

A release of 8,760 bottles, the Vietti 2017 Barolo Lazzarito draws its fruit from Serralunga d'Alba and reveals a luminous garnet color. Compared to some of the others in this portfolio, the wine takes a little longer to open and express itself. It does, however, unfold to dark cherry, redcurrant, grilled herb, iron ore and candied orange peel. You need to give your glass a few extra vigorous swirls. Those rusty mineral notes build in intensity and drive the wine's medium-long finish.