1999 Roberto Voerzio, Barolo, Cerequio

Voerzio’s 1999 Barolo Cerequio wraps around the palate with endless layers of fruit. The 1999 is still incredibly fresh and primary, with fabulous intensity and just the barest hints of tertiary complexity. Sweet floral notes meld into spice and red toned fruit, all supported by incisive 1999 tannins that cause the wine to clamp up a bit in the glass. A wine that is both incredibly sexy yet powerful, the Cerequio dazzles from the very first taste.

This has wonderful purity of fruit, showing raspberry and blackberry, and a hint of new wood. Full-bodied, with masses of tannins, yet balanced and soft. Long and gorgeous. Still needs time.—'99 Piedmont blind retrospective (2009). Best after 2012. 430 cases made. –JS

Red-ruby. Subtly perfumed, extremely pure nose of red cherry, rose petal and smoke. A racy, precise, yet thoroughly ripe wine with great vivacity. Comes across as almost delicate today but boasts superb extract. Finishes with very fine tannins and an exhilarating but subtle blend of fruits, spices and dried flowers. One of my sentimental favorites of the vintage.

The 1999 Barolo Cerequio tops the hit parade with tar and chocolate on the nose and a great aromatic impact and penetration, good size and dimension on the palate, and a superior concentration which, due to the sheer velvet of the texture, gives a wine which is also more supple and sensual. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 1999 Barolo Cerequio tops the hit parade with tar and chocolate on the nose and a great aromatic impact and penetration, good size and dimension on the palate, and a superior concentration which, due to the sheer velvet of the texture, gives a wine which is also more supple and sensual. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012. (Daniel Thomases)