1997 Roberto Voerzio, Barolo, La Serra

Dark ruby red. Subtle aromas of blackberry, milk chocolate and vanilla, with cloves and cedar. Full-bodied, with ultrapolished tannins and a long, long aftertaste of cedar, berry and flowers. Continuously changes in the glass. It's very complex.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best from 2009 through 2018. 385 cases made. –JS

The 1997 Barolo La Serra is a sexy, dense ruby/purple-colored effort offering notes of currants, black cherries, and licorice, a huge, chewy texture, plenty of glycerin, and a creamy, supple, velvety finish. Although impossible to resist, it will develop even more nuances over the next 4-5 years, and should last for two decades. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2023

The 1997 Barolo La Serra boasts off-the-chart extraction levels, with huge power, glycerin, and alcohol. The acidity is low, and there is an element of sur-maturite to the wine's black fruit character. This opulently styled, viscously-textured, opaque ruby/purple-colored wine is atypical, but wow, what an amazing drinking experience! My instincts suggest this wine will become more delineated and structured as it continues its evolution in cask/foudre and bottle. It is extremely high in tannin, even though most of it is hidden by the flamboyant display of glycerin, fruit, and alcohol. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2025. Importer: Viva Vino, Eddystone, PA; tel. (610) 872-1500

Saturated ruby-red. Deeply pitched nose of black raspberry and pungent spices. Sweet, lush, fat and chocolatey in the mouth; seems even larger scaled than the '96, with an impressively layered texture and superb depth of flavor. Finishes with huge, evenly distributed tannins and outstanding length.