The 2014 La Serra is another knockout wine from Roberto Voerzio. La Serra is a site that tends to produce nervous, slightly angular wines. In 2014, though, Voerzio manages to temper some of that tannic edge. Dark cherry and plum fruit are nicely rendered in this surprisingly silky, unctuous Barolo. Blood orange, spice, menthol and licorice grow in the glass as the wine's upper register begins to emerge over time. This is a remarkably harmonious young Barolo.

The 2014 Barolo la Serra is the most rigid and closed of the three single-vineyard selections I tasted this year. This wine requires the most nudging and patience, but all the while you are reminded that the best is still to come. Cassis, white cherry, grilled herb and crushed white stone or pencil shaving rise to the top. Those aromas are impeccably focused and sharp. At this young stage, there are few curves or soft sides to this impenetrable Barolo. I have extended the drinking window accordingly, because it will need more time to flesh out and soften.