Leather, iron, smoke, black cherries, plums and menthol wrap around the palate in the 2003 Barolo Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate. A huge, hulking wine, the 2003 boasts tons of depth and pure volume. Although not quite as fresh as the Sarmassa, the Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate boasts striking intensity and more than enough depth to drink well for at least another handful of years. Iron, smoke and tobacco wrap around the pulsating finish.

Loads of fresh, ripe strawberry on the nose, with lemony undertones. Full-bodied, with big, silky tannins and a long, long finish. Racy and structured. Best after 2011. 150 cases made, 30 cases imported. — JS

Voerzio’s 2003 Barolo Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate is a dark, brooding wine with balsamic notes woven into its massive, powerful frame. Big, sweet and long, this massively concentrated, structured Barolo will require patience, but it clearly has enough stuffing and freshness to continue to develop positively for another fifteen years or so. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. AG