2000 Roberto Voerzio, Barolo, Sarmassa

Voerzio's 2000 Barolo Sarmassa di Barolo, from magnum, shows more weight than the Rocche, along with a darker tonality of red fruit that caresses the palate with seamless power and elegance, Here, too, the aromas are simply breathtaking in dimension and expressiveness, while the wine reveals superb power and muscle, yet with a remarkable sense of harmony that keeps things in balance. This is a towering, majestic Barolo from Roberto Voerzio.

Sarmassa is not one of the better known vineyards of Barolo, but I have always been impressed by the better wines of the cru, and this 2000 Barolo Sarmassa is certainly in that category. The powerful aromas of wild cherries, red currants, and tobacco are very fresh and balsamic, the palate very full-bodied and rich, and the finish very sustained and intense. Tannic but velvety, this is a Barolo which will still be drinking well in 2020. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

(from 17-year-old vines; Voerzio's first vintage for this bottling was 1998) Full red-ruby. Perfumed, highly spicy aromas of cassis, violet and flowers; showing less surmaturite today than Voerzio's other 2000 Barolos, which may not be a bad thing. Fresh and penetrating, with juicy flavors of crystallized fruits and dark chocolate. This seems much less in the style of a hot year. Finishes with fine tannins and vibrant, lingering fruit.