1997 Albino Rocca, Barbaresco, Vigneto Loreto

The saturated ruby/purple-colored 1997 Barbaresco Vigneto Loreto boasts huge, soaring aromatics of black fruits, spices, flowers, and dried herbs. Extremely full-bodied, with silky tannin, phenomenal extract, great purity, and a seamless, velvety texture, this explosively rich fruit bomb will be impossible to resist young. A prodigious wine, it will last for 10-15 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Perfumed, floral aromas of blueberry, cassis and violet. Sweet and primary in the mouth, with terrific flavor intensity; really thick with extract. This has excellent grip and freshness for the vintage. Very long, slow building finish features a note of iron and lush tannins.