With fruit from a half-hectare south-facing parcel in Neive, the 2021 Barbaresco Cottà is not as immediately floral or fragrant as the village Barbaresco presented this year by Albino Rocca. This wine opens at a slower pace to reveal dark cherry fruit, candied orange peel and smoky licorice. It's a slow-moving Barbaresco that continues to show more depth and interesting angles the longer it stays in the glass. This bottle registers the highest alcohol content (at 15%) of the three single-vineyard expressions presented this year. Only 2,300 bottles were made.

Neive. Just mid ruby. Rich raspberry fruit with hints of dark spice and pepper. Plenty of concentration of fruit on the palate but the whole is compact and tied in by the sandy tannins. Lots of juicy fruit on the finish. (WS)