The 2017 Barolo Paiagallo is the most open and racy of Veglio's 2017. Ripe red cherry, kirsch, dried flowers, orange peel and cinnamon all develop as the 2017 opens in the glass. This is an especially ripe, forward Barolo, but it also has a bit better balance in its tannins.

A 4,000-bottle release, the Mauro Veglio 2017 Barolo Paiagallo offers a fleeting moment of ripeness, with summer cherry and raspberry that you taste for a brief moment before it fades away and then disappears completely. The wine is abridged, abrupt and extra contoured in terms of mouthfeel, with sharp edges and firm tannic structure that both need a little extra time to soften and flesh out. There is less fruit weight on the finish, but the wine marches forward, thanks to that hot-vintage tannic power.

Barolo. Mid ruby with bright orange tinges. Brooding cherry fruit with notes of tea leaves. Succulent cherry palate with lots of polished tannins. Suave and generous with hints of gingerbread on the finish. Long and generous and completely ready now. (WS)