The 1998 Amarone, on the other hand, is closer in style to the 2000. It is a powerful, beefy Amarone loaded with dark cherries, worn-in leather, earthiness and menthol. Slightly oxidative qualities give the 1998 elements of rusticity and also suggest the wine is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. This is one of the wines that improved the most with air, so readers should give the 1998 a fair bit of aeration prior to serving.

Allegrini's 1998 Amarone boasts an opaque purple color as well as intense aromas of pepper, black cherries, blackberries, asphalt, and truffles. Extremely full-bodied, with lavish concentration, great stuffing, and well-concealed alcohol (15.5%), this stunning Amarone is somewhat primary, but should be at its finest in 2-3 years, and drink well for two decades. It is a worthy successor to their profound 1997. Aged 25 months in 100% new French demi-muids, it is reminiscent of a modern-styled Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape. Bravo!

Dark, broody, with loads of raisin, mineral and tar character. Full-bodied, with fresh, spicy fruit on the palate, big velvety tannins and a long finish. JS