The 2004 Alzero is incredibly finessed from the very first taste. What a wine. Mocha, white truffles, black cherries, bittersweet chocolate, plums, spices, licorice and melted road tar all wrap around the palate in a super-refined, polished wine of the high level. The 2004 isn't a huge Alzero, instead it relies on silkiness, and a sense of total elegance. This heady, exotic, total turn-on of a wine should offer a wide drinking window of pure pleasure. Since 1997, Quintarelli has moved to make Alzero in a bit less opulent style than some previous editions, which I admit I have mixed feelings about. I have no reservations about the 2004, though. It is magnificent.

The stunning 2004 Cabernet Alzero is beautiful beyond words. What really stands out is the startling focus and definition of this elegant wine. Cabernet grapes are air-dried for added intensity and heft. This is unlike any other red wine made in Valpolicella. Its seamless elegance is infinite and so is its sheer might. It's a wine that soothes the senses but that also awakens and challenges them. The 2004 vintage is a brilliant expression with evident pedigree that requires hours of contemplation and respect. It's engineered to last. Drink 2015-2030. In the years leading up to "Bepi" Quintarelli's death in 2012 from Parkinson-s disease, there was a lot of confusion over who was managing affairs at the winery. Understandably, getting samples was difficult and visitor requests often went unanswered. Giuseppe Quintarelli had been sick for a long time and his survivors include four daughters and a slew of grandchildren. More than a year after his death, it seems a new chapter has commenced. The winery has a new United States importer (Kermit Lynch) and Quintarelli's heirs Francesco and Lorenzo (both grandsons) with Giampaolo (son-in-law) are communicative and excellent professionals. I hope the Quintarelli star will continue to rise. I have reviewed the 2003 Amarone Classico here. The 2004 will be released in early 2014. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, www.kermitlynch.com

The stunning 2004 Cabernet Alzero is beautiful beyond words. What really stands out is the startling focus and definition of this elegant wine. Cabernet grapes are air-dried for added intensity and heft. This is unlike any other red wine made in Valpolicella. Its seamless elegance is infinite and so is its sheer might. It's a wine that soothes the senses but that also awakens and challenges them. The 2004 vintage is a brilliant expression with evident pedigree that requires hours of contemplation and respect. It's engineered to last. Drink 2015-2030. ML