A rollercoaster of a wine over the week of tasting; very difficult to judge. At the first taste it seems quite developed – even over the hill – but it was nicely built on the palate: 90 points. Then it improves slowly, retaining those autumn leaves and leathery aromas but developing a most sensual texture on the palate and a complex finish: 93 points. After four days, it reached its first summit – that of a developed Musar; lovely. Then it went down again, only to resurge after a week, with a very complex expression of almonds, hazelnuts, dates and figs: gorgeous!

Cool year, Cinsault dominated. Cold and rainy until June, with a sunny, dry summer. Harvest began on 9 September. Pale, particularly bright garnet. Light, spicy, particularly well-integrated nose. Already well developed. Sweet start and very nicely mature. Seems just right now. The opposite of heavy. Lifted, jewel-bright. Really lovely wine. Fresh, sweet with some very slight mintiness. Dry finish and it would go beautifully with food. Very long. One of my favourite wines in this collection. Is it the Cinsault I like so much? (JR)