Wonderful nose – complex and inviting and layered. It instantly and confidently asserts itself as being a top-class Chardonnay, with just the right amount of struck-match and gunflint reduction, white flowers, and subtle baking spice on the nose. Ripe stone fruit – apricot and white peach – follow on the palate, along with lemon curd and creamy marzipan. The mid-palate richness is balanced with a driven, mouthwatering acidity. This is a serious step-up from the Village and a serious Chardonnay in its own right. Long and saline finish. Drink 2023-2035.

The 2022 Estate Chardonnay is nutty and svelte, with white peach, pastry, apricot kernel, brine and even a hint of malt biscuit through the finish. The wine has breadth and girth to it; it's not at all compact, but it's tight in texture. So, all things being equal, it's an exciting Chardonnay. This is from six different sites in the Kumeu area, with wine aging on lees in 20% new oak (just about all François Frères) for approximately 11 months. Everything goes 100% malolactic fermentation, wild primary ferment, and malolactic fermentation is a mixture of inoculation and wild. From 2024, they will not be inoculating malolactic fermentation, as "the wild yeasts seem to be the most reliable," explains Michael Brajkovich. Lovely acid. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

Some real richness on the nose. Then a green streak. Very fine texture! With Puligny savour and lift. Creamy yet fresh. Bullseye for the style. Good light grip on the end. Convincing. GV 13% Drink 2023 – 2028.