This is a delicate example of Central Otago, diverging from the archetypal style. Lifted, pure and intriguing, with festive spices, it is light in body, although the 14% alcohol brings a touch of weight to the midpalate. The aromatics wax and wane, offering violets, smoked paprika, and then along come orange peel and rhubarb on the next sniff, with cherries bringing up the rear. I’m a sucker for this wine’s intriguing scent, although I’d love a little more substance in terms of concentration if I’m being a nitpicker.

Although similar in color and gentle extraction to the A2 bottling, Akita's 2018 Pinot Noir A1 is rather different in style, with the aromas and flavors running toward sous-bois, smoke, earth and darker fruits. Medium-bodied, with a bit more tannin and gravitas, it's not as pretty, but it should perhaps end up being longer lived.