The 2019 Pinot Noir A1 is a scented and layered style, offering dark chocolate and dark cherry character with underlying fennel, rose petal and festive spices. This is a mid-weight, reflecting the cooler vintages in its tension and poise. Elegant and supple in the mouth with a corset of tension holding it in focus, the wine's structure builds toward the lengthy and fragrant conclusion. The tannins are very well handled, providing satisfying grip, and, in combination with the fresh acidity, this wine has the structural framework as well as the fruit concentration to evolve from its youthful, current self over the coming decade – maybe more. Who knows? This is only the eighth vintage of this cuvée, so predictions are educated guesswork.

The 2019 Pinot Noir A1 leads with aromas of dried incense (primarily sandalwood), goji berry, cranberry and Szechuan peppercorns. In the mouth, the wine is lean and earthy, with black pudding, bay leaf, forest floor, leather and aniseed. It's got slightly more character than the A2 bottling tasted beside it, so perhaps it will live for a longer time. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap