The 2020 Pinot Noir reminds me of walking into a cathedral - that quiet, cool hush that falls as you walk through its doors. This is harmonious, supple, unshowy and unforced. Hailing from old vines and delicately textured despite the abundance of fruit concentration. Refined tannins with the finest of gravelly textures, akin to licking a stone. Scented yet restrained, with a fragrance of sweet red fruit, tea leaf and cedar spices with persistent acidity that carries it. Very complete and already approachable.

The 2020 Pinot Noir leads with cherry and sumac, layers of graphite and dehydrated blood orange rind. The wine is fine-boned and savory, powered by a fine spool of acidity through the fruit. There are lovely, chalky tannins through the finish. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

Tasted blind. Mid garnet, beautiful nose that gives stemmy complexity, like freshly crushed herbs. Redcurrant, rhubarb, raspberry. Stylised and stylish with an earthy note and a moderate but complex persistence that shows off some herbaceous flair. (RH)

Mid garnet. An expressive, elegant Pinot Noir with burgundian flair. This is complex with blackcurrant fruit, earthy savour and smoky minerality. The tannins are fine-grained and slightly firm but will soften in bottle. Very persistent. (FG)

Blend of fruit from many blocks. Certified organic (BioGro). 40% whole bunch. Aged for 12 months in 228-litre barrels (25% new) then 6 months in tank. Much bluer than the McCrone. Pale rim. Gentle Pinot nose with definite fruit and charm. A little sweetness and then quite a bit of tannin. Still youthful? (JR)