This has a gorgeous, lifted nose that combines perfumed fruit and oak spice to heady effect. Soft, plush and fresh on the palate, with pinpoint raspberry acidity and lingering rose perfume. It’s matured in barriques and 500-litre French oak barrels, half new, the other half recently used – the oak plays an integral part and it’s applied with great skill. Displaying exceptional tannic finesse, this is a thrilling and emotive Syrah.

The 2017 Syrah Kershaw Clonal Selection Elgin is matured in 42% new oak with a small batch in breathable plastic eggs. It demonstrates a little reduction on the nose, but soon shakes this off to reveal black plum, boysenberry, bay leaf, wild heather and peaty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, poised and focused, delivering great delineation and structure toward the precise finish. Absolutely top class.