Riding the line between the New World and Old World expressions, the 2017 Anwilka begins with aromas of dusty blackberry, ripe plum, cedar and cigar spice before notions of graphite, sage and wet river rocks waft from the glass. Medium to full-bodied, it has a ripe yet rustic mouthfeel, energetic acidity and fine-grained tannins that lift the mid-palate. As the wine sits in the mouth, it continues to somersault and reveal its elegance and complexity over the persistent and elongated finish. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot rested for 19 months in French oak, of which 50% were first fill. It's drinking great now, but just give it one more year in the bottle and drink through the middle of the next decade.

Full bottle 1,498 g. 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Syrah, 7% Petit Verdot. Natural cork. NHB. Mid-deep ruby. Some jammy tones on the mixed black fruit, with evident clove, incense and cedar from its oak regime, but there is a dusty, fresh-earth tone too. Plush and full, with abundant, mouth-coating tannins, though these are fine-textured, sitting on the border between velvety and chalky. Good length, but a bitter touch through the finish that detracts a little. (TJ)