Composed of a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault and Tinta Barocca, the 2021 Columella is instantly impressive, with firm layers of red fruit over a spicy core of oak that sways with notions of turned earth and a kiss of wild herbs. Medium to full-bodied and with about 14% alcohol, the palate is fresh and nimble while delivering more oak on the palate than the nose leads on. The palate has flavors of wild sage and black peppercorn with notes of baked clay and plum skin. Undoubtedly, it will age for decades, but don't be too hasty to open this right away. Just over 14,000 bottles were produced from 50% whole-cluster grapes.

Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault and Tinta Barocca. From 10 vineyards: Paardeberg (5 vineyards), Kasteelberg (3 vineyards), Malmesbury (1 vineyard), Piquetberg (1 vineyard). 32 hl/ha. Ageing 24 months prior to bottling. Bright red- and black-fruit aromas, violets, whiffs of tea leaf, cedar, graphite and wood shavings – an extraordinary amalgam of spice notes, all of them derived from the fruit since the ageing is largely in old oak. A perfectly assembled, seamless blend, the tannins evident but evanescent, with allspice, cinnamon and vanilla pod carrying all the way to a generous rather than opulent finish. (MF)